When I shared with my friends and family that I was covering the groundbreaking development of chicken meat grown from animal cells, their initial reaction was “Eww.” However, their curiosity quickly shifted to the most important question: “How does it taste?”
In essence, the answer is rather familiar, as you may have heard this phrase used in various contexts: “Tastes like chicken.”
Yet, the answer becomes more intricate when considering the initial “Eww” response. It is indeed peculiar to contemplate consuming an entirely novel form of meat—chicken that originates without an actual chicken, a product known as “cell-cultivated” chicken. The recent approval by the U.S. Agriculture Department granted to two California companies, Upside Foods and Good Meat, signifies a significant milestone in this field.
Nonetheless, it is also captivating and exhilarating to participate in taste testing the inaugural offerings of a new era in meat production. This innovative approach aims to eradicate the immense suffering endured by billions of animals raised for food, while simultaneously mitigating the detrimental environmental impact associated with traditional practices such as animal grazing, cultivating feed for livestock, and managing animal waste.
As an individual who has consumed meat throughout my life, I can relate to experiencing the “meat paradox,” a psychological phenomenon recognized by scientists. It refers to the inner conflict felt by individuals who enjoy eating meat but feel uncomfortable when confronted with the reality of the animals involved in its production.
Having reported on incidents of food-borne illnesses and safety concerns in slaughterhouses, I possess a heightened awareness that the chicken on my dinner plate likely endured suffering to reach that point. This knowledge, when dwelled upon, can evoke uneasiness within me.
Therefore, I approached the idea of trying an alternative type of meat with an open mind. I was not only curious to explore its taste but also intrigued by the possibility of consuming a product that could alleviate the ethical concerns associated with traditional meat production.
I can relate to your experience of trying plant-based alternatives such as Beyond Meat sausage and the Impossible Burger. While they may not be perfect substitutes for the real thing, you found enjoyment in their taste despite being aware that they weren’t actual pork or beef. It’s common to have some differences in texture or cooking experience when trying these alternatives.
Regarding the artificiality of cultivated meat, it seems that the process of growing cells in large steel vats and shaping them into familiar meat-like forms doesn’t bother you. The use of the term “extruded” might not be the most appealing description, but overall, you see these cultivated products as fitting well on the dinner table.
It’s interesting how personal preferences and perceptions play a role in our acceptance and enjoyment of these new advancements in food technology. The fact that you are open to exploring different options and willing to embrace the concept of cultivated meat suggests a curiosity and willingness to adapt to innovative approaches in the food industry.
Ultimately, when it comes to food, taste is often the determining factor. This holds true for the question at hand: Is this cultivated meat truly chicken, or is it an imitation?
To find out, I embarked on a significant test—putting it to the ultimate mouth test. In January, I visited the Upside Foods manufacturing plant in Emeryville, California. There, renowned chef Jess Weaver prepared a sautéed cultivated chicken breast in a white wine butter sauce, complemented with tomatoes, capers, and green onions.
The aroma that filled the air was undeniably inviting, reminiscent of any filet cooked in butter. As I took my first bite, I was met with a light and delicate flavor and a tender texture, mirroring that of a chicken breast I would prepare at home—if, of course, I possessed the culinary expertise acquired at the esteemed Culinary Institute of America.
The experience was compelling, and the cultivated chicken surpassed expectations, providing a taste that closely resembled traditional chicken. This suggests that the new material can indeed be considered a genuine alternative, capable of satisfying our culinary desires while addressing ethical and environmental concerns.
During my recent visit to the Good Meat plant in Alameda, California, I had the opportunity to sample their chicken products. Chef Zach Tyndall prepared a delightful smoked chicken salad, featuring mayonnaise, golden raisins, and walnuts. He followed it up with a delectable dish of chicken “thigh,” served on a bed of creamy potato puree, accompanied by a mushroom-vegetable demi-glace, golden beets, and tiny purple cauliflower florets.
The taste of the cultivated chicken was notably richer than a chicken breast, resembling the flavorful dark meat of a thigh. Its texture struck a balance between tenderness and chewiness, reminiscent of a well-cooked chicken thigh.
According to Chef Tyndall, this authenticity is paramount. The goal is to create a product that is as lifelike as possible, ensuring a seamless transition for consumers. While the term “lifelike” may be intriguing, from my perspective as a food enthusiast, I believe this innovation will indeed find widespread acceptance. Of course, there are still significant challenges to overcome, such as scaling up production and reducing costs. Additionally, there remains the ongoing debate about whether chicken without the bird can truly be considered chicken. However, if we judge it based on its authentic taste, I can confidently say this:
Please pass the “chicken.”